Antique floral jewellery

Antique floral jewellery became famous during the Victorian era in 1837 to 1901. It is a fine jewellery - has lots of precious stones like diamonds and emeralds (shown in figure 1) and made of precious metal like gold, platinum and silver. In the antique jewellery, flowers are imitated to make jewellery. The jewellery that I manufacture is also based on this idea of imitating flowers, but I specifically imitate the rose flower. When imitating the rose I focus on getting the shape and texture right by forging, doming and etching. The pictures below in figure 1 and 2 shows the imitated flowers that are domed, which is also the technique that I use in my imitating process. 

Figure 1- dits Meller, M., (c.1850), Mellerio floral tiara, platinum, gold, diamonds and emeralds.

This is a floral tiara  made by Mellerio dits Meller which belonged to Eugene Beauharnais in circa 1850's. 

Figure 2- Phillips, S.J., (unkown). En tremblant antique floral spray and diamond brooch, silver ontop of gold and diamonds.

 

Art nouveau floral jewellery

 

Art nouveau is the jewellery that became famous from 1890 to 1914. In this period jewellery floral designs are repeated to form a pattern as shown in figure 2 and flowers are imitated to make jewellery using mixed materials as shown in figure 1. Art Nouveau floral jewellery is very colourful because of the mixed materials that are used to make jewellery. In figure 1, I like the leaf details with their colour it reminds me of the etched rose petals that I manufactured.

Figure 1 - Lalique, R., (1899-1901). Hawthorn brooch, diamond, enamel, glass and engraved with words 'je refleuriray'.

This brooch in figure 1 was designed for Sarah Bernhardt who was a French stage actress. I like how the designer imitated the Hawthorn branch using mixed materials.

Figure 2 -Wolfers, P., (1900-1901). Art Nouveau Glycines choker, Gold, carved watermelon tourmaline, carved opal, ruby, and garnet.

Romantic language of flowers

Flowers have no meaning but they are used to give meaning. According to Beth Bernstein a gift of a red tulip could mean a declaration of love. In the olden days, flowers were used to express emotions even at ceremonies like weddings. The bride is the one who chooses the colours of her bouquet for her wedding day which expresses her emotions. Bernstein said the choice of wedding bouquet spoke of the different emotions expressed by brides. The scattering of petals is an ancient custom is performed in weddings before the bride walks down the aisle scattered by the flower girl. The scattering of petals meant wishing happy new beginnings in the new journey of life. According to Bernstein scattering of rose petals meant wishes of love and happiness as the couple entered a new life together.

Flowers communicate different meanings and feelings and have been used in the olden days but the growth of technology affected that type of communication. Bernstein says " the origin of the Western idea of flowers representing specific meaning is said to have been inspired by Selam- a Turkish custom of communicating through flowers and other objects." 

Table of contents

 Theme

Theory

• Bruce Metcalf.
• VGCJ - Mixed materials.
•  - Organic.
• Beth Bernstein.

History

• Roses and meaning.
• Hidden meaning in jewellery

Floral Jewellery.

• Mesopotamia.
• Egypt. 
• Greece.
• Rome.
• Medieval period.
• Renaissance.
• Victorian Era.
• Art Nouveau.

References.

Other designers.

• Victoria Walker.
• Lauren Hapster.
• Yaron Bob.
• Mitricheva Iryna.
• Donna Barry.
• Michael Michaud.
• Wu Ching Chi.

Methodology

• Action research outline
• My target.
• Scattered petals necklace.

Portfolio

• Bouquet ring 
• Rose earrings
• Bangle.
• Platinum piece. 
• Rose brooch.
• Copper crown.
• Platinum test piece 1.
• Plat test 2.
• Platinum piece.
• Fly pressing.
• Roll milling.
• Etching.

Personal meanings.

• Stories 
• Flowers from Sithembele.
• Flowers for funeral.
• Flowers for Sabbath day.
• A rose story.
• Rose bouquet.
• Flowers for church.

Conclusion.

Spiritual mediation

Bruce Metcalf is the writer of the essay "On the Nature of Jewellery (part 1)" in which he wrote about the functions of jewellery. He states these to be spiritual mediation, social status, and redeemable wealth. On the functions mentioned above, I am only focusing on spiritual mediation. On the essay written by Metcalf says, "For as long as we know, jewellery is associated with the spiritual and the supernatural.’’ My approach to jewellery design and manufacture is to make jewellery that connects with my spirits. I am using roses as inspiration to create contemporary jewellery. 

Spiritual mediation is to connect spiritually with anything around you. Roses are flowers that connect with me, enhance my moods, and uplifts my spirits. Whenever I receive or buy roses, I smell them and feel excitement welling up inside me. The scent of roses clears my mind and gives me peace whenever there is a commotion in my heart and soul. Whenever I feel sad, angry or unhappy, roses change all the negative moods into something more positive, which brightens my day. This is how I connect spiritually with the roses.

Designing

Arrangement of etched petals to get a design that I can choose from when manufacturing a new piece of jewellery. 

Figure 1- Mthethwa F., (2020). Petals, brass with red gel.

.

Figure 2 - Mthethwa F., (2020). Petals, brass with red gel

Figure 3- Mthethwa, F., (2020). Petals 

Figure 4- Mthethwa, F., (2020) Petals with red gel 

Figure 5- Mthethwa, F., (2020). Petals. 

 

 

Test pieces

I have been trying to add color to the etched petals. The red nail gel worked well on the petal as you can see in figure 1 below. 

Figure 1- Mthethwa, F., (2020). Petal, brass with red nail gel.

The enamel did not work on brass metal as you can see in figure 2 below but I will try again in copper metal.  

Figure 2- Mthethwa, F., (2020). Petals, bass with lime enamel. 

Figure 3- Mthethwa, F., (2020). Petal, brass and blackned